In the last post I mentioned hiring a driver. That deserves some explanation. When a European appearing person (read: white) gets off a bus in a place like Mbeya there is a particular kind of person waiting. It is an ambitious local young man, who is nicely dressed, unintimidated and speaks reasonable English. He smells money. My fellow was named Charles and he immediately offered taxi service to my hotel. Since he had a driver of his own I was grateful for 2 sets of arms to haul the load. Remember, I’m still nursing a shoulder that is about half capacity. By the time we reached the hotel he had ascertained that I would be there all the next day and checking out the day after that. After hearing about my plans to visit the hospital and orphanage as well as a few errands he offered to be my guide with his driver. We negotiated a price that, for me needing assistance in a strange city was a bargain and for him a windfall. Promptly at nine they picked me up and we set out on a successful day. About 2 in the afternoon the missions were accomplished and he suggested I see a local attraction called the Bridge of Gold. (at a small additional fee, of course.)We drove for about an hour to a place that was absolutely breathtaking. A series of small waterfalls flowed under the largest and most beautiful natural bridge I had ever seen. It glowed golden through the mist in the late afternoon sun and I was in photo heaven. Just down the river was a huge waterfall accessible from the top but not the bottom. What a treasure I gained because I was willing to trust these 2 guys. Why? After all, they could have taken me our there, robbed me and left me in a ditch or worse. First, he had given me a receipt with his name, phone number and vehicle number after the first ride from the bus stop. Second, he seemed like a good person and I’m rarely wrong about people going on gut feelings. Third, I’m in Tanzania and crime is almost unknown here away from the big cities. You wouldn’t use someone without a reference in Kenya or South Africa. At 5am just the driver came to convey me back to the bus station. After he deposited me with my luggage near the bus I noted that the small canvas travel bag I was carrying was gone. It contained some reading material, food, water and the small digital camera I was carrying as a backup. I was upset, realized there was nothing I could do and went into damage control mode. Then I looked up and saw the car reappear in the emerging dawn. The driver got out, came over to me holding the missing bag. Wow, talk about vindicating trust. I was extremely grateful and let him know it. Shortly after Charles showed up and made sure my luggage and I got on the same bus together which, considering the confusion of thirty or so busses loading in the semi-dark, was not a done deal. Anyone going to Mbeya let me know. I’ll give you his number. The day was downhill from there. The bus was old, crowded and noisy. Would you enjoy loud, bad hip-hop in Swahili for 7 hours? The bus was configured 3 and 2 across. I was number 3 on the isle sandwiched between two very fat women and the armrest which prevented their sheer bulk from displacing me out into the aisle. I have a bruise on the left side of my abdomen from the pressure. There were no animals this time but I think I would have preferred the chicken from last year. The road was still unpaved, bumpy and full of holes but not as bad as last year at the end of the rainy season. We only had to get out of the bus once at a road washout to allow it to cross a makeshift repair.
When I arrived in Sumbawanga somewhat the worse for wear, a cab was waiting for me and the driver deposited me and my baggage there. I was finally rid of the burden. I felt like Henry Knox bringing the cannons over the mountains to General Washington from Fort Ticonderoga. (if you don't know that story look it up. It's a good one.) I was off then to settle in at the Forest Way Country Club and (thankfully) Bar.
I'm so glad you keep finding lovely people to help you...I can't wait to see photos of the Golden Bridge!
Posted by: Jessica | June 22, 2008 at 09:55 AM
Your blog's are like reading a wonderful book. I look everyday for a new adventure. Stay safe.
Harriet
Posted by: Harriet Yiambilis | June 22, 2008 at 02:52 PM